Near to Faro

At the south-westerly extreme of the Iberian Peninsular, the Algarve region of Portugal is blessed with an almost African climate warming a dramatic coastline of soaring cliffs and luxuriant blonde sand. Just a short three-hour flight from Birmingham, you land at the coastal city of Faro, the region’s capital and an ideal place to start your holiday. Not only is the airport less than a kilometre from the city centre, it’s perfectly placed at the heart of a Portugal’s favourite sun-spot, with mile after mile of varied coastline to explore, west towards the invigorating Atlantic and east across the Spanish border some 50km away.

You won’t have to stray far from Faro itself to find all the ingredients of excellent coastal holiday. The strip surrounding the city is a blend of clean sand and calm lagoons, sheltered from the more boisterous outbursts of the open sea by a string of low sandy islands close to the shore that make up the Ria Formosa. With two long peninsulas and five barrier islands, there’s over 60km of sand to sun yourself on. The area’s outstanding natural beauty and unique environment have earned its protected status as a National Park, ensuring that a large part of the Ria Formosa retains its natural perfection. As a result, you have a choice of beaches – either wild and natural, backed by nothing more than the area’s characteristic mashes and salt pans, or more civilised surroundings closer to the city, with bars, restaurants and all the modern luxuries an easy stroll from the gently lapping waves.

The city of Faro itself is a collision of ancient and modern, an up-to-date resort town with a beating nightlife and a historic centre full of the cultural treasures of its diverse multi-cultural history. The old town, surrounded by its Medieval / Moorish era defensive walls, contains an enchanting record of the past to be discovered as you weave through the narrow streets flanked by whitewashed homes, from the cathedral dating back to the 1200s with its complex of chapels developed over the centuries, to the castle built by the 9th century Moorish ruler of the city and rebuilt over the years. Faro expanded beyond its defensive perimeter in the 19th century as wealthy middle classes looked for space to build their homes, creating the sprawl of the modern new town.

Head west and the coast changes character; long low dunes give way to epic towering cliffs, tumbling down to secluded coves, hiding places for beaches so perfect they belong in a dream. The ochre rock faces are carved into intricately layered patterns by the winter winds blowing in off the Atlantic, creating scenes never to be forgotten.

Lagos, around 70km along the coast west of Faro, is well placed if you prefer the more dramatic version of the Algarve coast. This compact city has a long and proud association with the sea – Portuguese voyages of discovery to West Africa set off from here in the 14th century. The modern Lagos sees fresh seafood restaurants sit side by site with charming souvenir shops on narrow twisting streets. A well developed holiday resort, there’s plenty of choice in how to feed and entertain visitors of all ages. Attractive though the town is, it’s reason for being a holiday destination is the surrounding coastline.

The beach of Meia Praias to the east of Lagos offers plenty of space all year round if you like your sand not too crowded, or, if you don’t mind rubbing shoulders, the southern beaches have better scenery (hence more visitors!). One the best attractions in the area is the Praia Dona Ana, with its towering cliff face, home to a café built right into the rock itself, the perfect place to relax and admire the view after snorkeling around the clear waters below. The more exposed beaches of Alvor make them popular for water sports fans, with higher winds and higher waves good for surfing and sailing. With such an intricate coastline, the beaches around Lagos are many and varied in character – some peacefully sheltered, some invigoratingly open. Packed close together, it’s easy to move from one to the next throughout the day to keep your beach holiday varied and interesting.

While a distinctly Portuguese city, Faro is increasingly popular as a route in to the western reaches of the Spanish coast. Just across the border, the Costa de la Luz is a long standing favourite with Spanish holidaymakers and increasingly being discovered by visitors from across the continent. Facing the Atlantic, it’s less developed (and less crowded) than the more famous Spanish Costas that line the Mediterranean coast to the east, ideal if peace and space are close to the top of your holiday ‘must have’ list.

Being less developed, visitors get to see more of the authentic Spanish character of the region, free from layers of generic holiday resorts and English pubs serving all-day breakfasts. Most resorts are still pretty close to their fishing village roots, though with enough beach-side facilities to make a visit far from a survival challenge. The cuisine reflects the predominantly Spanish clientele, with plenty of fresh seafood prepared in the distinctive local style, with little compromise for the northern European palate. If you like a taste of the real Spain this is the Costa for you.

A trip inland is well worth the effort, either for cultural or natural wonders in the distinctive city of Seville or across the craggy Andalucian Mountains. The capital of the Andalucia region and fortress of its distinctive cultural identity, Seville is the home of flamenco and bullfighting. It’s a city of many layers, with ancient buildings charting its evolution through Roman, Moorish, gothic and renaissance periods, waiting to be discovered down winding streets and secluded plazas.